Honetsukidori made with tender young chicken · Photo: Yurie Matsunaga / CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)
JapanTakamatsuHonetsukidori: Kagawa’s Bone-In Roast Chicken Leg, Second Only to Udon
Kagawa’s next most famous food after udon is honetsukidori, a whole bone-in chicken leg roasted in one piece. Here is how it was born in Marugame in 1953, inspired by a roast chicken in a movie, the difference between chewy "oya" and tender "hina," and how to eat it with your hands.
A Whole Chicken Leg Roasted on the Bone
Honetsukidori, literally "bone-attached bird," is a Kagawa Prefecture local dish of a whole chicken leg roasted on the bone. The leg is seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic and cooked over high heat, giving crisp, salty skin with a strong garlic-and-pepper kick that goes perfectly with beer. Even the fat and juices pooled on the plate carry that spicy flavor. It began as a specialty of Marugame City in Kagawa and is now a common menu item at izakaya across the prefecture, Takamatsu included. A public relations magazine of Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, introducing local chicken dishes from around the country, named honetsukidori "a Marugame specialty with more than half a century of tradition." After udon at lunch, honetsukidori and a beer in the evening is a fine way to see another side of Kagawa.
Born in 1953 From a Movie Roast Chicken
Honetsukidori is said to have started in 1953, when a couple who ran an izakaya in Marugame began selling it, inspired by a roast chicken in a Hollywood movie. Not long after the war, they turned the whole roast chicken on the screen into a Japanese izakaya dish. Later, as that restaurant expanded to Yokohama and Osaka, honetsukidori drew attention as Kagawa’s next great specialty after udon, and other places rushed to add it to their menus. Marugame City promotes it nationwide as a local gourmet dish: it publishes an official guidebook, the "Honetsukidori Encyclopedia," distributed at tourist information centers and elsewhere, and has an official tourism mascot modeled on honetsukidori.
"Oya" or "Hina": Which to Choose
When you order honetsukidori, you are usually asked to choose between two kinds. "Oya" (parent) is a mature hen that has laid eggs, with firm meat that releases more flavor the more you chew. "Hina" (chick) is a young bird with plump, tender meat that is easy to eat. Some places call it "waka" (young). The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries magazine also describes "two kinds: hearty mature hen and tender young chicken." Oya is popular with people who like something to chew, but some find it tough enough to make their jaw ache, so for a first try choose hina, or order one of each with a companion and share to compare.
How to Eat It With Your Hands
Honetsukidori is eaten with your hands. Wrap the bone end in the paper napkin that comes with it, grip it, and take a big bite from the meaty side. It releases a lot of fat, so use plenty of napkins and watch out for splashes on your clothes. It often comes with shredded cabbage, which is nice for refreshing your palate between bites of spicy chicken. Some people dip the cabbage in the fat and juices pooled at the bottom of the plate. The garlic and pepper are strong, so it is often enjoyed as an izakaya dish with beer. The skin is crispest while hot, so start eating as soon as it arrives.
Where to Eat It
To feel the original atmosphere, visit Marugame, where it was born. Marugame is reachable from Takamatsu by JR train, and it pairs well with a visit to Marugame Castle. The city’s honetsukidori guidebook is available at tourist information centers and elsewhere and is handy for choosing a place. In Takamatsu you can also easily find it at izakaya and honetsukidori specialists in the downtown entertainment district, so if you are staying in Takamatsu there is no need to travel far. Some places get crowded at dinnertime, so going early in the evening or reserving ahead makes things easier. Some places offer takeout, so enjoying it with a beer back at your hotel is another option.