Geoje's Winter Cod: The Big-Mouthed Fish That Returns to Jinhae Bay, and the Soup It Makes

In winter, Oepo harbor in Jangmok, Geoje, is lined with cod drying racks and smells of cod soup. Here is why cod return from northern seas to spawn in Jinhae Bay, how they are traded at Oepo and how to eat them.

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Named for Its Big Mouth

In Korean, cod is daegu, written with the Chinese characters for "big mouth" (大口), a name earned by its unusually large mouth and head. Cod live in cold northern waters 200 to 500 meters deep and can grow close to a meter long. According to press reports, they reach 20 to 27 cm in a year, around 60 cm in three years and 80 to 90 cm in five. Even among white fish, cod is lean, with only about 1 percent fat and plenty of protein, so it tastes clean and makes a clear broth. That is why Koreans have long loved it in refreshing winter soups. In Geoje, cod is regarded as the city's signature fish and is the top winter food for visitors. For locals, the arrival of cod is a sign that winter has come.

A Fish That Comes Home to Jinhae Bay

Cod are a homing species that return to the waters where they were born to spawn. According to press reports, they come back from the North Pacific to Jinhae Bay in winter, stay from December to February and head north again in March. A single female can lay 1.5 to 4 million eggs. Jinhae Bay, enclosed by Gadeokdo and Geojedo islands, has calm water that suits spawning, so one of Korea's leading cod grounds forms there. It has been described as accounting for around 30 percent of the national cod catch. Because cod numbers fell at one point, South Gyeongsang Province and Geoje City have released artificially fertilized eggs since 1981 and hatchery-raised young cod since 2005. Reports also say a January fishing ban has been applied along the south coast to protect spawning fish.

Oepo Harbor, Where the Cod Come In

Oepo harbor in Jangmok-myeon, northeast Geoje, is the collection point for cod caught around Jinhae Bay. Cod are caught with a trap net called a homang, and small fish are reportedly released to protect stocks. The catch is auctioned at the Geoje fisheries cooperative's Oepo market and shipped across the country. The signature winter scene at Oepo is the row of drying racks along the shore, where split cod are hung to dry slowly in the sea wind, a sight you only get in this season. Restaurants serving cod dishes cluster around the harbor; a 2018 report counted 11 specialist cod restaurants. Labor-intensive dishes like braised cod are said to be hard to get on busy days without a reservation.

Head to Milt: Eating the Whole Cod

The signature dish is daegu-tang, cod soup. The gutted fish is cut into pieces and simmered with radish, water dropwort, green onion and chili into a clear, refreshing broth that is also a popular hangover cure. Many places also offer a spicy version with chili powder. Cod is a fish with almost no waste. The big head is steamed with vegetables and seasoning as daegu-ppoljjim, and the milt of male cod (iri) goes into the soup for a soft, rich taste. The roe is added to soup or salted, the liver is steamed, and even the gills and innards are made into salted fish. Dried cod is also braised or grilled. If you want soup with milt, ask when you order.

When to Go: The December Festival and Winter Tips

Cod season runs from December to February, and the fish are said to taste richer the colder it gets. Every December the Geoje Cod and Seafood Festival has been held around Oepo harbor. Reports describe catch-with-your-hands events, cod-drying rack experiences, a direct sales market and surprise auctions. Dates change every year, so check Geoje City's announcements. Oepo is an easy drive from Busan across the Geoga Bridge, so many people make a day trip. The winter sea wind is biting, so dress warmly if you want to see the drying racks. Prices vary by size and sex, and a 2019 report found males selling for more than females. If you buy a whole fish, ask whether they can clean and cut it for you.

#Geoje cod#Oepo harbor#Cod soup#Jinhae Bay#Winter delicacy