Kakigori (reference photo) · Photo: yoppy (Flickr) / CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)
JapanNikkoNikko's Natural Ice Kakigori: From a Frozen Winter Pond to a Summer Shaved Ice
Of the few natural ice makers left in Japan, three are in Nikko. Mountain spring water freezes slowly in winter ponds, is cut into blocks, stored in an icehouse until summer and shaved into kakigori. Here is how natural ice is made, why it gives such a fluffy texture and how to enjoy it.
Natural Ice That Survived the Machine-Ice Era
Natural ice (tennen-gori) is ice frozen naturally by winter cold, without refrigeration machinery. Japan has enjoyed ice for a very long time; the Heian-period essay collection The Pillow Book is said to mention eating ice. For centuries, ice frozen in winter was kept in icehouses called himuro and taken out for use in summer. When machine-made ice arrived from overseas in the early Meiji era, however, natural ice makers declined rapidly after peaking in the Taisho era. According to travel media, about seven natural ice producers remain in Japan today, three of them in Nikko City, with the others in places such as Karuizawa in Nagano, Nagatoro in Saitama, and Hokuto and Kawaguchiko in Yamanashi. Counts differ slightly between sources, but they agree on three in Nikko.
Two Weeks in a Winter Pond, Cut at 13 to 15 cm
Here is how Nikko's natural ice is made, taking one producer as an example. Mountain spring water is channeled into an ice pond about 54 meters by 22 meters, and after about two weeks of winter cold the ice has grown. When it reaches about 13 to 15 cm thick, it is time to cut. In the case described, the harvest took place in early February. Lines are scored on the ice in a grid and cut with an electric cutter, each slab weighing about 40 kg. The slabs are slid along bamboo rails and guided into the icehouse with hooked poles. This producer reportedly harvests about 5,500 slabs, roughly 220 tons, a year. It is laborious work at the mercy of the weather.
Ice That Sleeps in Cypress Sawdust Until Summer
The cut ice waits for summer in an icehouse, or himuro. The icehouse of the producer described is a single-story wooden building from before the war, with cypress (hinoki) pillars and chestnut interior walls. Once the ice is stacked, it is packed all around with cypress sawdust, which acts as insulation so the ice reportedly lasts until summer without melting. This electricity-free storage method carries on the wisdom of the old himuro. Because everything is done by hand, output is limited, and this producer reportedly sells only in person, not online. Each bowl of natural ice kakigori you eat in Nikko holds a midwinter's labor and months of waiting.
Why Is Natural Ice Kakigori So Fluffy?
The appeal of natural ice kakigori is its cotton-like fluffiness that melts away in your mouth. According to the sources, the reason lies in how the ice is made. Because it freezes slowly over a long time in severe cold, it becomes hard ice with few impurities, and the harder and purer the ice, the less it melts as it is shaved, allowing very thin, fine flakes. Some places also say kakigori made with natural ice does not make your mouth feel too cold. That impression may vary from person to person, but you will clearly notice a softness quite different from the crunchy ice of ordinary shaved ice. Syrups vary from shop to shop, from strawberry and matcha to fresh fruit; to really taste the ice itself, choose a simple syrup.
Enjoying Natural Ice Kakigori in Nikko
You can try natural ice kakigori at shaved ice shops and cafes in central Nikko and around Imaichi. Many open mainly in July and August, while some operate year-round, so check their season before you go. Long lines are common in peak summer and on weekends, so go early or aim for a weekday. Some shops serve generous portions, so sharing is fine. The trick is to eat from the top down, a little at a time, before the ice melts. On a summer day when visiting Toshogu has left you sweaty, cooling off with ice made by Nikko's winter cold is an experience unique to this area, a dessert that holds Nikko's winter and summer in one bowl.