Daebudo Clam Kalguksu
KoreaGyeonggi · AnsanDaebudo Clam Kalguksu: A Clean, Briny Bowl From Ansan's Tidal-Flat Island
Daebudo in Ansan is an island where wide tidal flats appear twice a day, and its signature dish is kalguksu made with clams from those flats. Here is how the island's clam-noodle strip came about, how to eat the dish, when clams are best and how to plan your visit.
Daebudo, an Island of Tidal Flats and Clams
Daebudo belongs to Ansan in Gyeonggi Province, and the province's webzine describes it as a large island about 14 times the size of Seoul's Yeouido. Twice a day the tide goes out and wide mudflats appear around it, and those flats are home to bajirak, Manila clams. The Manila clam is Gyeonggi's signature shellfish, said to make up about 44% of the shellfish harvested from the province's flats. It lives in mixed sand and mud, and the late-Joseon scholar Jeong Yak-jeon recorded it in his marine encyclopedia Jasan Eobo under the name cheonhap, noting its plentiful, tasty flesh. A 2002 Kyunghyang Shinmun article called Daebudo the de facto home of clam kalguksu because its rich flats yielded so many good clams, and noted that clam beds were common around Daebudo and Oido even before the Sihwa Seawall was built.
How a Seawall Opened Up a Noodle Strip
What really put Daebudo on the clam kalguksu map was access. According to a 2002 Kyunghyang Shinmun report, the island was linked to the mainland on the Hwaseong side in 1988, and when the Sihwa Seawall opened in 1994, the number of travelers driving to the island jumped, and kalguksu restaurants multiplied to match. Articles from that time already describe noodle houses lined up from the Bangameori area where you arrive off the seawall. Cheap clam kalguksu with its clean broth was the perfect meal for families on a seaside day out, and Daebudo even came to be called the original of the clam kalguksu sold around Seoul.
What's in the Bowl
Clam kalguksu is knife-cut wheat noodles cooked in a broth made with Manila clams, with vegetables such as Korean zucchini, carrot and mung bean sprouts. Seasoning is kept light to let the seafood shine, so the broth is clean and refreshing. Unlike kalguksu made with meat stock, its center is the briny, slightly salty taste of the sea drawn from the clams. On Daebudo many places serve it in a big bowl generously filled with clams. Some restaurants also serve haemul kalguksu with other shellfish and seafood, so check the menu if you want clams only. Clams are known to be rich in iron and B vitamins, making this a hearty bowl after a day in the sea breeze.
How to Enjoy It
Start with a spoonful of broth to taste the clean flavor of the clams, then pick the clam meat out and eat it with the noodles for the best texture. Setting the shells aside as you go makes eating easier. Kalguksu usually comes with crisp napa cabbage kimchi and radish kimchi, which add punch to the mild broth. Try it plain first so you do not mask the broth; if you like heat, eat it with plenty of kimchi or ask whether there is a spicy sauce. In a group, ask about portion sizes before ordering one per person, since many Daebudo noodle houses serve generous amounts. The clams are fully cooked, so even travelers who avoid raw seafood can enjoy it without worry.
Best Season and Travel Tips
You can eat clam kalguksu year-round, but according to Gyeonggi Province's webzine, clams become active on the flats in spring and fill out firmly ahead of their early-summer spawning. Go in spring for the plumpest clams. Noodle houses are spread across the island, starting with the Bangameori area where you arrive off the Sihwa Seawall. The seawall road and island roads get crowded on weekends, so set out early. Daebudo faces the western sea and its sunsets are beautiful; one article suggests timing your meal to sunset and taking a seat with a sea view. If you want to try mudflat digging, check the tide times in advance and only go out at designated experience areas, following the posted guidance.